Diamond Education

The princess-cut diamond is bold, modern, and brilliantly captivating. With its clean geometric lines and exceptional sparkle, it's one of the most popular fancy-shaped diamonds in the world.

We'll cover everything you need to know before buying a princess cut diamond—from understanding its history and structure to evaluating cut quality, managing its unique characteristics, and practical buying tips to help you make a confident, informed choice.

Princess Cut Diamonds: The Basics

A princess cut diamond is a square or rectangular diamond characterized by sharp, pointed corners and a strong geometric silhouette. When viewed from above, it displays straight edges and precise 90-degree angles that give it a distinctly modern appearance.

Despite the square diamond shape, the princess cut is not a step cut. It uses brilliant-style faceting designed to maximize sparkle. Unlike round brilliants, princess cut diamonds do not have a standardized facet count—most modern princess cuts typically feature between 50 and 78 facets (depending on the specific cutting style) to enhance brilliance and light return. These facets create a distinctive "X" or chevron pattern visible through the table, radiating outward from the center. This brilliant-style faceting is what gives princess cuts their sharp, lively sparkle—setting them apart from square step cuts like Asscher diamonds.

History of Princess Cut Diamonds

Although square-shaped diamonds have existed since the 1400s, the modern princess cut is a relatively recent innovation. It was developed in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in Los Angeles, building on earlier square brilliant concepts such as the Barion and quadrillion cuts of the 1960s and 1970s.

One of the key advantages of the princess cut lies in its cutting efficiency. Unlike round brilliants, which can lose up to 50% of the original rough diamond during cutting, princess cuts retain significantly more—sometimes up to 80%. This efficiency makes them more affordable per carat than rounds while still offering exceptional brilliance.

The name "princess cut" was chosen to evoke elegance and royalty, and the shape quickly gained popularity throughout the 1980s and 1990s. By combining a contemporary square shape with the brilliant sparkle that diamond buyers loved in rounds, the princess cut filled a unique niche in fine jewelry. Today, it remains one of the most sought-after fancy diamond shapes, especially among those who appreciate clean lines and modern design.

Pros and Cons of Princess Cut Diamonds

• Excellent Brilliance: Princess cuts are among the most brilliant of all square diamond shapes when well cut. Thanks to their brilliant-cut faceting, they offer sparkle that rivals round brilliants.
• Modern, Contemporary Aesthetic: The sharp corners and clean geometric lines give princess cuts a distinctly modern look. They are perfect for those who prefer contemporary design over vintage or traditional styles.
• Better Value: Princess cuts cost 20–40% less per carat than comparable round diamonds. The more efficient use of rough diamond and lower market demand compared to rounds create significant savings, allowing buyers to choose larger sizes or higher quality within the same budget.
• Versatility in Settings: While princess cuts have a modern aesthetic, they work beautifully in both contemporary and traditional settings—from sleek solitaires to vintage-inspired halos, channel settings, and three-stone designs.
• Unique Look: Princess cuts offer a distinct look, perfect for those who want an unconventional engagement ring.
• Larger Face-Up Appearance: The square shape shows more surface area, providing greater visual impact.
• Hides Inclusions Well: The brilliant faceting and sparkle help mask inclusions effectively, similar to rounds, allowing you to choose lower diamond clarity grades while maintaining an eye-clean appearance.

Cons of Princess Cut Diamonds

• Fragile Corners: The four pointed corners are vulnerable to chipping and require protective prongs on all four points, necessitating careful settings like V-prongs and bezel settings.
• Color Concentration: Color tends to pool in the corners, making lower color grades more noticeable, especially in white metal settings. Higher grades (G or higher) are recommended.
• Less Forgiving Cut: Small variations in proportions can significantly impact appearance and brilliance.
• Sharp Edges Can Snag: The pointed corners can occasionally catch on fabric or clothing, particularly in raised settings.

How to Choose a Princess Cut Diamond

As with other fancy cuts, there isn't an industry standard for grading princess cut diamonds. That being said, buyers can use the Diamond 4Cs—cut, clarity, color and carat weight—when selecting the ideal diamond.

Cut

Diamond cut quality is the most important factor when selecting a princess cut diamond. It directly impacts brilliance, fire, and overall visual appeal. Princess cuts do not receive an overall cut grade from GIA, so quality must be evaluated through proportions, symmetry, polish, and visual performance. Recommended guidelines:

• Depth: 65%–75%
• Table: 68%–75%
• Symmetry: Very Good to Excellent
• Polish: Very Good to Excellent

Diamonds outside these ranges may appear dull or leak light. Always review videos or inspect the diamond in person when possible.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Most diamond dealers consider the ideal length-to-width ratio to be as close as possible to perfectly square. A ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 will appear square to the naked eye, while a ratio approaching 1.10 may be visibly rectangular. Unless you specifically prefer a rectangular stone, look for the smallest possible ratio.

Clarity

Princess cut diamonds mask inclusions very well, and imperfections are usually quite hard to see with the naked eye. For most buyers, VS2 clarity offers the best balance of beauty and value. If you're on a tighter budget, SI1 can work but requires careful evaluation—review magnified images and the clarity plot to ensure inclusions aren't in vulnerable corner positions or directly under the table where they'd be most visible.

Color

Princess cut diamonds conceal color moderately well, and like most diamonds, smaller stones will hide color more effectively than larger ones. For white gold or platinum settings, G–H color grades are recommended. In yellow or rose gold, I–J grades can appear warm and visually pleasing while offering better value.

Carat

Princess cut diamonds retain more of the original rough, which contributes to their favorable pricing. While carat weight matters, cut quality has a greater influence on how impressive the diamond appears once set. Buying just below popular diamond carat milestones—such as 0.90, 1.40, or 1.90 carats—can yield excellent value.

Best Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds

Because of their pointed corners, princess cut diamonds benefit from protective settings. V-prongs, bezels, and four-prong settings designed specifically for princess cuts help safeguard the corners while maintaining the diamond's clean geometry.

Halo settings are especially popular, as they enhance perceived size and add an extra layer of protection around the tips. For those who prefer a more minimal look, solitaire settings beautifully showcase the diamond's brilliance, while three-stone and pavé styles add dimension without overwhelming the center stone.

Putting It Together

There are countless variations of the princess cut, and many unique characteristics are a matter of personal preference. Keep a few simple guidelines in mind when shopping for a princess cut diamond:

• Choose settings that protect corners.
• Balance clarity and color with your budget.
• Insist on a certification with your purchase.
• If buying online, only buy from trusted, reputable jewelers.
• Consider carat strategically by buying just below milestone weights (0.90, 1.40, 1.90) for maximum value.
• Consider lab-grown diamonds as a value option, offering the same look and durability at a more accessible price point.
• Always review high-quality images and videos in various lighting, or ideally view in person.

Find Your Perfect Princess Cut Diamond

Princess cut diamonds offer a compelling balance of brilliance, modern design, and value. Their crisp geometry, strong sparkle, and versatility across settings make them an enduring favorite for lab grown engagement rings and fine jewelry. By focusing on cut quality, thoughtful proportions, and protective settings, you can select a princess cut diamond engagement ring at With Clarity that feels confident, contemporary, and timeless.

Princess Cut Diamond FAQs

What makes a princess cut diamond different from other square shapes?

Princess cuts use brilliant-style faceting, giving them more sparkle than square step cuts like emerald or Asscher shapes.

Do princess cut diamonds sparkle as much as round diamonds?

Princess cuts offer strong brilliance, though the sparkle pattern is sharper and more angular compared to the balanced sparkle of round brilliants.

Are the corners of a princess cut diamond fragile?

The pointed corners are more exposed than rounded shapes, which is why protective settings and prong placement are especially important.

What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a princess cut diamond?

Most buyers prefer ratios between 1.00 and 1.05 for a classic square appearance, though slightly rectangular styles are also available.

Do princess cut diamonds look smaller than their carat weight?

Princess cuts often carry more weight in depth, so their face-up size can appear slightly smaller than elongated shapes of the same carat.

Is cut quality important for princess cut diamonds?

Yes—because princess cuts don't receive a standardized cut grade, evaluating proportions, symmetry, and light performance is key.

Are princess cut diamonds good value compared to round diamonds?

Generally, yes. Princess cuts tend to cost less per carat than round diamonds while still delivering strong brilliance.

What settings work best to protect a princess cut diamond?

Settings with V-prongs, four prongs, halos, or bezels help safeguard the corners while complementing the diamond's clean geometry.