Engagement Ring Education

Every engagement ring tells a unique story. With its refined elegance and contemporary edge, a princess cut engagement ring reflects both individuality and confident style. Defined by its crisp square silhouette and brilliant sparkle, the princess cut has become a favorite among modern brides looking for something distinctive yet timeless—a stunning alternative to the classic round brilliant.

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

The princess cut is a square or slightly rectangular diamond defined by crisp edges and pointed corners, creating a bold, architectural silhouette. Its clean 90-degree angles give it a distinctly contemporary feel.

Though square in shape, the princess cut uses brilliant-style faceting rather than step cuts. There is no fixed facet count—most stones feature roughly 50 to 78 facets, depending on the cutting approach. These facets form a subtle chevron or “X” pattern beneath the table, producing the sharp, energetic sparkle that distinguishes the princess cut from square step-cut diamonds like the Asscher.

A Brief History of the Princess Cut

While square-shaped diamonds have existed for centuries, the modern princess cut is a relatively recent innovation. It was developed in Los Angeles by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz and formally introduced in 1980, evolving from earlier square styles such as the Barion and quadrillion cuts of the 1960s and 1970s.

What set the princess cut apart was its fusion of brilliant-style faceting with a crisp geometric square outline, delivering exceptional sparkle while retaining a contemporary edge. It also offered a practical advantage: its cutting style preserved more of the rough diamond, resulting in less material waste compared to many other shapes. With a name that evokes royalty and refinement, the princess cut surged in popularity through the 1980s and 1990s and remains one of the most sought-after fancy shapes for engagement rings today.

Why Princess Cut Diamond Engagement Rings Are So Popular

Princess cut diamond engagement rings remain a favorite for brides who want brilliance with a modern edge. Their sharp corners and clean, geometric lines create a contemporary silhouette, while brilliant-style faceting ensures exceptional sparkle.

They also offer strong visual presence and often cost less per carat than round diamonds, making them an appealing choice for buyers who want maximum impact without sacrificing value. Versatile across solitaires, halos, and three-stone settings, the princess cut strikes a confident balance between bold design and timeless appeal—helping explain its enduring popularity.

Famous Princess Cut Engagement Rings

Princess cut engagement rings have been chosen by several high-profile figures, helping solidify the shape’s place in modern bridal jewelry.

• Kate Bosworth received a princess cut diamond engagement ring from Michael Polish, set in a refined, classic design that highlights the square silhouette’s clean geometry.

• Emily Ratajkowski’s original engagement ring from Sebastian Bear-McClard featured a distinctive two-stone design, pairing a princess cut with a pear-shaped diamond for a bold, fashion-forward statement.

• Hilary Duff has also worn a princess cut engagement ring, showcasing the shape’s crisp brilliance in a contemporary setting.

From minimalist solitaires to more unconventional designs, these celebrity choices demonstrate how the princess cut blends architectural structure with eye-catching sparkle—making it a standout alternative to round diamonds.

Pros & Cons Of Princess Diamond Engagement Rings

Pros:

• Excellent brilliance and sparkle: Princess cuts are modified brilliant cuts, meaning they’re designed for sparkle — not just shape. Their faceting pattern produces strong fire and scintillation, making them one of the most brilliant square diamond options available.

• Larger face-up appearance: Because of their square outline and corner-to-corner spread, princess cuts can look substantial even at modest carat weights, especially when paired with slim bands.

• Hides inclusions well: Thanks to their brilliant-style faceting, princess cut diamonds tend to disguise small inclusions effectively. This means clarity grades such as VS2 or even well-selected SI1 can often appear eye-clean, offering strong visual performance without paying for higher grades.

• Great value: Princess cut diamonds typically cost less per carat than comparable round brilliants. Their square shape allows cutters to retain more of the original rough diamond, resulting in less waste—and often better value for the buyer.

• Memorable look: Princess cut diamond engagement rings are distinctly modern and unique, making them perfect for modern brides who want a ring that stands out and leaves a lasting impression.

Cons:

• Vulnerable corners: The sharply angled corners of a princess cut diamond are prone to snagging, and are also vulnerable to chipping and breaking, often requiring protective settings.

• Color concentration: Princess cut diamonds do not mask color as well as round brilliants. Color may be especially apparent near the corners, and a higher color grade (G or better) is recommended.

How to Buy a Princess Cut Diamond Engagement Ring?

A great ring starts with a great diamond, and evaluating a princess cut diamond ring depends on a wide variety of factors, starting with the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity and carat. Because princess cuts do not receive a standardized overall cut grade from GIA, selecting a high-quality stone requires closer attention to proportions, symmetry, and visual performance. Here’s what to focus on:

Understanding the 4Cs for Princess Cut Diamonds

Cut

The most important of the 4 Cs, cut quality has an immense impact on a diamond’s brilliance, sparkle and overall beauty. Because princess cuts —or other “fancy” shapes—do not receive a standardized overall cut grade from GIA, selecting a high-quality stone requires closer attention to proportions, symmetry, and visual performance. Here’s what to focus on:

• Depth: 65%–75%

• Table: 68%–75%

• Symmetry: Very Good to Excellent

• Polish: Very Good to Excellent

Evaluate Light Performance

Unlike round diamonds, princess cuts vary widely in faceting patterns and brilliance. Two stones with similar measurements can perform very differently.

Look for:

• Even brightness across the surface

• Minimal dark zones or overly deep centers

• Strong contrast without appearing “glassy”

If possible, review high-resolution images or 360° video to assess how the diamond handles light.

Color

Princess cuts can show color slightly more than round brilliants due to their angular shape and larger table. Color is most visible near the corners.

• In platinum or white gold, G–H provides a bright, near-colorless look without overpaying. If budget allows, staying within G–I offers a safe balance of crisp appearance and value.

• In yellow or rose gold, you can comfortably choose I–J, as the warmth of the metal helps offset subtle tint and keeps the diamond looking bright.

Clarity

Princess cuts hide inclusions better than many other cuts. A clarity grade of VS2 (very slightly included) offers the best balance of beauty and value for most buyers. SI1 (slightly included) can work if you’re on a tighter budget, but be sure to carefully evaluate the stone under magnification, either in person or via high-quality video. Do ensure that inclusions aren't in vulnerable corner positions or directly under the table..

Carat

Princess cuts often carry more weight in depth than elongated shapes. If visual spread matters to you, compare millimeter measurements rather than relying on carat weight alone. Two 1.00-carat princess cuts can appear noticeably different in size depending on proportions.

Also, focus on buying just below milestone weights (0.90-0.99 carat instead of 1 carat, for example) for the best value.

Square vs. Rectangular Princess Cuts

While the princess cut is typically associated with a square shape, it can also appear slightly rectangular depending on its proportions. When selecting a princess cut engagement ring, pay close attention to the diamond’s length-to-width ratio.

A 1.00 ratio represents a perfect square, while ratios up to 1.05 generally appear square to the naked eye. As the ratio increases, the shape becomes more noticeably rectangular.

If you prefer a subtly elongated look—which some brides appreciate for its finger-lengthening effect—consider a ratio of 1.10 or higher for a distinctly rectangular appearance.

Protect the Corners

The pointed corners are the most impact-sensitive areas of a princess cut. Ensure the setting uses V-prongs or protective corner prongs to minimize the risk of chipping.

Corner security is not optional — it’s essential for long-term durability.

Lab-Grown Princess Cut Diamonds

Lab-grown princess cut diamonds are chemically, physically, and visually identical to mined diamonds. Created in controlled environments that replicate natural formation conditions, they offer the same brilliance, hardness, and durability — with a more accessible price point.

Because princess cuts already use rough diamond more efficiently than round brilliants, they tend to offer strong value per carat. Choosing a lab-grown princess cut amplifies that advantage, allowing you to select a larger center stone or upgrade color and clarity without increasing your overall budget.

This can be particularly appealing for princess cuts, where symmetry, clean corners, and bold presence are part of the design appeal. Opting for lab-grown often makes it easier to achieve a well-proportioned square shape with excellent brightness while maximizing visual impact.

For buyers who value size, structure, and brilliance — while also making a financially strategic choice — lab-grown princess cut diamonds offer a compelling alternative.

Best Settings for Princess Cut Diamond Engagement Rings

Princess cut engagement rings are designed to highlight the diamond’s sharp geometry while protecting its pointed corners.

Solitaire

In solitaire settings, V-prongs at each corner provide essential protection while maintaining a clean, classic look. This style allows ample light to enter the stone, maximizing brilliance.

Bezel

A bezel setting fully encircles the diamond with a metal rim, offering superior protection against chipping. It creates a sleek, modern profile and is ideal for active lifestyles.

Halo

Halo settings frame the princess cut with a circle of smaller diamonds, enhancing overall sparkle and creating the illusion of greater size.

Three-Stone

Princess cuts also shine in three-stone designs, often paired with tapered baguettes, trapezoids, trillions, or smaller princess cuts. These combinations emphasize the center stone’s bold lines while adding dimension and presence.

Metal Choices That Complement Princess Cut Diamonds

Platinum is a favored choice for princess cut engagement rings thanks to its exceptional durability and naturally bright white luster, which enhances the diamond’s brilliance. White gold offers a similar look at a more accessible price point, though it is slightly softer and may require periodic replating to maintain its finish.

Yellow gold pairs beautifully with princess cut diamonds, adding warm contrast and timeless appeal—especially in vintage-inspired designs. For a softer, more romantic aesthetic, rose gold brings a subtle blush tone that complements the sharp geometry of a princess cut with modern elegance.

Find the Perfect Princess Cut Diamond Engagement Ring at With Clarity

Striking and symmetrical, princess cut diamond engagement rings offer brilliance with bold structure. Their clean lines and sharp geometry create a modern silhouette, while brilliant-style faceting ensures vibrant sparkle from every angle.

At With Clarity, explore a thoughtfully curated collection of princess cut engagement rings — from classic solitaires to halo and channel-set designs that highlight the shape’s crisp edges. Choose from platinum, white, yellow, or rose gold settings, and customize your ring with mined or lab-grown diamonds to suit your preferences.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Are princess cut diamonds as sparkly as round diamonds?

Princess cuts use brilliant-style faceting, which gives them strong sparkle and fire. While round brilliants are optimized for maximum light return, princess cuts come very close.

2. Do princess cut diamonds look bigger than round diamonds?

They can. Their square shape often has a slightly larger face-up appearance than a round diamond of the same carat weight.

3. What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a princess cut?

Most buyers prefer a ratio between 1.00 and 1.05 for a true square look. Ratios above that create a slightly rectangular appearance.

4. Do princess cut diamonds hide inclusions well?

Yes. Their intricate faceting helps mask small inclusions, which means many VS2 and some SI1 stones appear eye-clean.

5. Do princess cuts show color more easily?

They can show warmth slightly more than round brilliants, particularly in larger sizes. Choosing the right color grade based on metal type is important.

6. Are princess cut diamonds more affordable than round diamonds?

Typically, yes. Princess cuts usually cost less per carat because their shape preserves more of the original rough diamond.

7. Are princess cut diamonds durable?

They have pointed corners, which can be more vulnerable to chipping. Protective prongs (like V-prongs) are recommended to secure the corners.

8. What settings work best with princess cut diamonds?

Princess cuts pair beautifully with solitaires, halos, channel-set bands, and three-stone designs, especially when the corners are well protected.